![]() I have been doing research and some say it might just be water, some say the cat might be plugged but others say it might be the ignition module. (they stole my custom made seats) It has been about a year now and i have seats but when I drive, it bogs really bad, losses all power and when i hit the breaks it dies, but will die without hitting the breaks. After that I had no seats for the vehicle. My problem is, the vehicle was stolen and recovered. which would meen, I would have to turn it counterclockwise a quarter of a turn if not more to get it in the right position. Now, I just took a look at mine and the 10BTC is a quarter turn clockwise on the HB. First off, this has been the most detailed post I have read. Timing any motor should be done basically this way. I've used this method on a buddy's 460, and had it running within minutes. NOTE: This method will work on most V8's, not just the 302 or 351. ATC 10||||0||||10 ||||20||||30 BTC (Each " |" represents 2 degrees) Or just know that you'll want the 10*BTC mark to be just under the timing pointer (hidden). I've made 12* and 14*BTC red so you can see where you'll need to line up the pointer for the sixlitre tune up. If doing the sixlitre tune up, you'll want to make your mark on the 12* or 13* BTC instead of ten. If the mark is lined up where you want it, replace the spout connector. Recheck again after the distributor is tight. ![]() Next, if the mark is off by a little bit, turn the distributor so the mark lines up with the pointer. It helps to have the truck partway in a garage to darken the surrounding light so you can see the timing marks every time the light flashes. Aim the light towards the timing pointer, and see where the yellow/white mark on the 10* BTC that you made is at. ![]() The spout will look like this for the ones that's near the distributor (84-91). Now pull the spout connector or pull the vacuum line off the distributor and plug the line. > Make sure all wires from timing light are away from the fan.<. It's in more details and I'm not going to explain using the dial in this thread.yet (post 12). The dial is another way to read the balancer if going by a mark that's at 0* TDC. If it's not at 0*, then your timing will not be set right accordingly to these instructions. And this is why I do this at 10*BTC and not 0*TDC:ĪTC 10||||0|||| 10||||20||||30 BTC) If your using a light that has a dial, make sure the dial is at 0 degrees. This thread is about how I do this, every time. Most people will recommend stabbing the distributor at 0*TDC. This should be number 1 compression stroke. If it went past the timing pointer, then you can either turn it counter clockwise to meet the mark, or spin the crank so that the 10*BTC mark passes the timing pointer once (going clockwise) and stopping on the timing pointer on the second spin (clockwise). If it's before (spinning in clockwise direction), turn it so the 10*BTC lines up with the pointer like so. Locate your 10* BTC and this should be relatively close to your timing pointer. When doing so, put a finger over the plug hole. Using a screwdriver, bump the starter relay. (This is where step one is IMPORTANT, if you don't believe me, go ask Garlic Bronco :doh0715 There will be two 10's showing, you want the red 10 below. Mark 10* BTDC with a white/yellow crayon. Clean them up with a wire brush or some sandpaper. These are located on the harmonic balancer. Make sure your timing marks are clean and can be read. And leave the key removed from ignition as you don't want the engine to start while using this process. Make sure auto trans is in Park and parking brake on, or if it's a manual trans in neutral and parking brake on (safety first). ![]() These first directions are for new motor installs, or if you've pulled the distributor and didn't mark the distributor before removing it. These first steps are to be able to fire it up without a timing light. I get tired of typing this, and figured this was the best post I could do for a step by step on how to properly set timing on a 302 or 351 in a technical write up.
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The text could definitely use a copy editor, though, and its many grammar errors and typos can get distracting. Though its characters aren't particularly novel, they are colorfully written in a style that matches their expressively drawn portraits and compensates for the lack of voice acting. The Dead Man's Switch's story briskly and entertainingly twists itself into something much bigger and more sinister than the whodunit it begins as. The differences are mostly cosmetic, and playing as a massive troll or ork certainly makes me feel more intimidating than a human, elf, or dwarf, even if characters don't react to me differently. Racial bonuses for the five fantasy species aren't dramatic, amounting to just a point or two, but a dwarf's higher willpower ceiling would make him a slightly better fit for a mage, for example. I soon grasped that I'd only need to worry about a small part of the tree with any reasonably specialized build, though. Skill points are doled out regularly, creating a good sense of constant progression. At first glance its RPG system looks promising – intimidating, even, due to a list of skills and abilities so long and complex it requires quite a bit of scrolling to get through. Shadowrun Returns isn't a very pretty game, but it does make effective use of its simple graphics, in part by preventing us from zooming in for a close look. ![]() ![]() Thanks to a shared minimalist style, its sparsely detailed 3D characters fit in well as they run around on a respectable variety of painted 2D backgrounds representing a noirish vision of 2050s Seattle. Some jerk's snatching Seattle's organs.Shotgun-toting elves fighting side by side with ork mages and dwarf hackers certainly isn't the typical take on fantasy, and that lends Shadowrun's setting an edge. What you're really getting when you buy it is a short but well-written tale of murder and conspiracy called The Dead Man's Switch, access to what will probably become a fertile ground for community-created content in the future, and just enough of an isometric roleplaying game and turn-based tactical combat to get by. Shadowrun Returns is the name of this classic-style isometric role-playing game, but it's really just a venue for telling stories in its long-dormant sci-fi/fantasy universe. ![]() (once three attempts are made, stop as the engine wont start) The result from this needs to do one of two things, if there is no change, (which means the engine hasn't started) I need to loop back to the first task and repeat both task one and task two to a maximum of three attempts. ![]() I then need to check another analogue input - voltage pin to see if voltage has changed. When the value exceeds the threshold (300mv), digital write (at the moment the on board LED for testing) to high but only for 5 seconds. ![]() There are multiple tasks required, but only one after the other depending on conditions. I'll explain what I need my sketch to do and then hope you can tell me what I've done wrong. then trigger a relay which connects ignition to ground and stops the motor. Do you guys agree, or is there a better way? I need to monitor when I reach about 36 to 37v dc. I see most people talk about using a couple of resistors as voltage dividers as a simple approach (which suits me). I need to also monitor a dc battery voltage for shut down. So i'll work with 61 as a threshold value.Īgain, many thanks for your prompt responses. The 66 value I picked up from another forum post and was the answer to a more specific mv value.ģ00 mv gives me a reasonable buffer as it represents either one light circuit being on (well under 300mv) or two circuits (about 360mv I think). I know what my current is, I just need to use the Arduino (Mega 2560) to monitor it, determine when it exceeds 300mv and switch a relay on (to start a generator). Most examples for the INA169 are about determining what current is being drawn. I just need to know to get the comparison to work. I don't actually care what form its in (mv or integer). current time - start time >= 5 secondsĭelay(100) //this could be removed if needed If(relayFlag = true & millis() - starTime >= 5000UL) If (relayFlag = false & attempts threshold) if the analog value is high enough, power the relay: Int analogValue = analogRead(currentPin) initialize the RELAY pin as an output: ![]() Unsigned long interval = 5000 // 5 seconds Unsigned long starTime = 0 // global variable Lots of examples explaining how things are converted to between, but I cant find any info on what value is actually compared to the nominated threshold value // These constants won't change:Ĭonst int currentPin = A0 // pin that the current sensor is attached toĬonst int voltagePin = A1 // pin that the voltage sensor is attached toĬonst int relayPin = 13 // pin that the relay is attached toĬonst int threshold = 300 // the current draw threshold level that's in the range of the analog input My question is, what value should the threshold that the analogue read value is compared to be set at? Is it the mv (i.e 300 mv) value, or the equivalent integer value (which I think is 66?) once the analogue read value has been converted? When the output value exceeds 300mv as read on analogue read A0, my Arduino has some work to do. I need to read the output from an INA169 current sensor. A seemingly simple question that I cant find an answer to. ![]() Note: This flash is NOT FOR the "R6S", which is essentially a 2003-2005 YZF-R6. If you would like to add $1200 of insurance, please select the option from the drop down menu. We have several preconfigured ECU images that have been track tested and will work great for your bike, or we can make optimal setting recommendations for your own customized image.Īfter your purchase is completed, you will receive a confirmation via email that includes a questionnaire regarding your motorcycle and your preferences on our flash settings, as well as the address you'll send the ECU to.Įach ECU is return shipped with $110 in insurance. Quickshifting ( Sensors available - CLICK HERE) Load Power Commander maps directly onto your ECUĪdjustable radiator fan temps for more efficient coolingīypassing the factory o2 sensor for better throttle response Race ignition timing (for premium pump gas) Remove all speed and gear based restrictions Various fuel maps are available for bikes with stock exhaust, a full system, slip ons or a 3/4 (cat-back) exhaust system. You'll have a much more responsive and smooth throttle. We then fine tune, much like the YEC race ECU. We will give your bike an additional 5-7 rear wheel horsepower and remove all throttle and timing restrictions on the bike from the factory that US model YZF-R6s have. We will make sure that every ECU is right for each rider. We are offering a service equal to or better than any of our competitors and with unparalleled support. Note - We know we're offering this service at a price point considerably lower than our competitors. ![]() You send us your ECU and we reflash it to your custom specifications. All re-flashed will require a $100 re-reflashing fee due to licensing changes. Quote from: ugatha on May 19, 2022, 01:00:07 pm**IMPORTANT UPDATE: Please note that all ECU flashes done before are no longer re-flashed free of charge. I’ve had over 30 bikes through the years and this has been the modification that provided me with the most bang for the buck over anything else I’ve ever done to improve a bike’s performance.Īlso - From the time I mailed the ECU to receiving it back was less than a week. It has changed the character of the bike for the better in every category. I can roll on the throttle in 5th gear at 60 mph now and the response is great. The performance is absolutely better - Ivan’s charts show around a 25% increase in HP and I believe it. The throttle response is 100% better now no more snatchiness. The burble is also noticeable when shifting gears. Brands Superbike Unlimited ECU Tuning Product Code: XSR700 ECU Flash Availability: In Stock. Yamaha XSR700 Race ECU Flash 0 reviews Write a review. The deceleration popping is gone and is replaced with a deep chuffing burble. SC-Project Ducati Monster 1200 (17-18) & 1200R (16-18) SC1-R Carbon Fiber Exhaust. ![]() The results of Ivan’s tune is amazing, and I am thoroughly pleased. I’m seriously thinking about having Ivan remap the ECU, but the stock air box is still installed. We will give your bike an additional 15-18 rear wheel horsepower and remove all throttle and timing restrictions on the bike from the factory that US model FZ-10 models have. ( The Kuryakin Velociraptor was my first choice but their merger with Tucker resulted in no availability for the foreseeable future) We can return the ECU to stock if needed, free of charge. I added a V&H naked air intake because Ivan’s data showed that combination with the slip on and his tune gave the best results. The bike had a V&H slip on when I bought it, and there was a lot of deceleration popping in addition to the jerky throttle response that is common on Bolts. I bought the ECU flash for my 2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec. I always rasterise images, reduce their size (but always to a size that is slightly larger than I need) and then convert them into Smart Objects by hitting F2. ![]() Once your project contains a number of these full-size original images, it can slow down even the fastest of PC’s. When you drag an image onto the canvas it becomes a Smart Object by default, but quite often the original image will be many times larger than it would need to be for the web or screen.
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